Break up Family Holidays : Travelling to unexplored tourists’
paradise of extreme remote destination of Eastern Nepal 2019. .
To escape from the
prolong tiresome hospitality service of our Mansarover Homestay since this summer
tourist season 2019, my small family consisting my wife Puspa , my son Sandeep
and myself took a four days break up
holidays from 15th Jun 2019 to 20 Jun 2019 closing down the booking from
our web-site for visiting Taplayjung Nepal via Ilam. But my sister Shiva
suggested us to visit Maimajhuwa where her sister-in-law Sarda Gurung resides
and operates a beautiful homestay
named Pema Shikar Heritage Farmhouse
Homestay at Maimajhuwa. On 15th
Jun 2019 morning we set forth our journey
in our own car crossing Nepal
border from Pasupati Fakat Custom Point.
After taking the necessary formality paying 4 days temporary vehicle permit, we proceeded towards Ilam Bazar via Fikkal. The motor able road constructed by Korean grant-in-aid fund and their engineers is really praiseworthy to ply the vehicle through
greenery mountain and beautiful villages. The road are wide and well maintained having box drainage system along the entire stretch of road.
On the way I noticed some beautiful way side hotel constructed locally available resource ie. Bamboo rids which is worth eye-catching and eco-friendly.
The
typical Nepalese heritage thatched roof huts along the road side recollected my
childhood days of our rural village house at Darjeelng Hills
I
stopped my car at one way side hotel at Bhalukhp for wash room facility where we drank pure handrolled Ilam organic
tea contained full of flavor which
refreshed my long monotonous driving.
We reached Ilam at about 2 o’clock. The
old houses of wooden structure look so beautiful and seem to be heritage
building. Though the town is small but it beautiful. The shops were all closed
down as Saturday is the public holiday at Nepal.
Ilam is to Nepal what Darjeeling is to India - Home to
finest tea production in the country and a beautiful hilly region. Ilam has
many tea estates and some of them have started offering accommodation to tourists
as well. Kanyam, is the most well-known and a beautiful tea estate. One can
visit Ilam View Tower at Panitanki and Gadi is another good spot for great view
of the hills and surrounding tea gardens.
While sipping the hot tea, it pained my heart a lot
seeing a huge piles of tree logs along the road everywhere for sale. If such type massive tree felling takes place
in the eastern mountain of Nepal, the environmental degradation will, no doubt,
takes place effecting not only Nepal country but also effect Indian Sub
Himalayan region. The public awareness
for preserving forests is the demand of the day. The government of Nepal should
intervene this deforestation in this
region in order to preserve bio-diversity in the sub-himalayan region especially
Singalila. Wildlife Sanctuary. I would also request the environmental ministry,
the government of India for initiate talk to Nepal Government for conservation
of such lovely flora and fauna of this part of world.
.
The deforestation is rampant and transportation of
logs by big lorries are seen frequently while plying the vehicle on the stretch
of long journey . What I felt that farmers earn immediate income out of sale of
fire woods and logs at the cost of irreparable lost of flora and fauna and
environment degradation .The Nepal government must stop the murder of this
lovely earth of Eastern Nepal.
After reaching Ilam, East Nepal we further proceeded
towards our journey, my host Sri Kamal
Gurung, owner of Pema Shikhar Heritage Farm Homestay had arranged one 1942
model vintage Land Rover jeep from Bhanjyang to Maimajhuwa. Mr. Kamal Gurung
owner/driver received on the way and led us to Barbodetay where I had to parked
my car 4 days at Gurung Homestay owned by Mr Gautam Gurung, the relative of my
host. He is my nephew in relation on behalf of soltenee Sarda Gurung. Kamal
Gurng family runs a beautiful homestay. He has his own Tea Garden and produces
hand rolled best organic tea. Gautam Gurung and his family has big agricultural
land where they run one cattle farm and it’s subsidiary dairy Farm. They produces dog-chew bars and exports the product
to America from Nepal. His 3 unmarried
old aged sisters are real Gurungsenes of
full of humors and talk straightforward addressing timi or thah to any persons
irrespective their ages and positions. This is the way of simple village folks
lives of interior Nepal. What I observed here that the style of language spoken
in Eastern Nepal is similar to the people of Darjeeling and Sikkim. When the
British company started tea plantations in the
hill of Darjeeling, this part of ancestors
might had migrated and permanently settled down at Darjeelng and Sikkim.
While
plying the vehicle on the highway, I noticed that in each eateries along the
road openly display the alcohol for sale and the drivers of public transport
vehicles commonly drink liquor which is
dangerous to the lives of commuters. This practice should be nipped to
the bird, I mean, the ban to display liquors as well as sale of liquor along
site of highway to be implemented as practiced
in India,
We
reached Ilam ,Eastern Nepal Town at about
2 o’clock. I had to park my car at some safer place for 4 days because SUV
cannot ply on rough country road.
So I hired one 1942 model vintage Land Rover vehicle to take further 30 kms. journey
to negotiate over the cross-country stony
and muddy hilly kachha road towards Maimajhuwa Gurung hemlet.
The road is challenging to off-road
adventurous travelers. My hat off to the Red Panda Off Road bikers who completed
their tough expedition from Siliguri via Ilam Eastern Nepal version to Sandakpur.
My son Sandeep has a passion to
drive vintage Land Rover and he enjoyed the experience to drive such a old
model jeep so smoothly. We halt for a break at Deorali Bhanjyang . old wooden
structure houses and restaurants which reminds me the old western cinema taxes
town. I met some old gurungsene ladies of above eighty years old of age with
their robust health with traditional ornaments. My camara captured their
beautiful photographs.
We
reached Ilam ,Eastern Nepal Town at
about 2 o’clock. I had to park my car at some safer place for 4 days because SUV
cannot ply on rough country road.
So I hired one 1942 model vintage Land Rover vehicle to take further 30 kms.
journey to negotiate over the
cross-country stony and muddy hilly kachha road towards Maimajhuwa Gurung
hemlet.
We reached Ilam ,Eastern Nepal Town at about 2 o’clock. I had to park my car at
some safer place for 4 days because SUV
cannot ply on rough country road.
So I hired one 1942 model vintage Land Rover vehicle to take further 30 kms.
journey to negotiate over the
cross-country stony and muddy hilly kachha road towards Maimajhuwa Gurung
hemlet.
On the way I saw one poster about Red Panda Awareness
Motorbike rally poster displayed near Mai Pokhari under Sandakpur Gaon Palika. Just a few days back, I had commented on
facebook account to Oshan Lepcha of Himalaya Tour & Travel, Dooars version,
the team leader of bike rally for the success of the expedition. I always made him aware that lot of resentments
and criticism written in the newspapers about timing of motor bike rally
because this is the hyphenation period of wild birds and animals of Singalila
National Park. The wildlife division of
Forest Department has announced to stop for inflow of tourists with effect from
15 Jun 2019 to Sept 2019.
We halt sometime at Mai Pokhari
Touirst place to see this natural lake which is so beautiful. Mai
Pokhari houses a magnificent lake and nine ponds - some even large enough for
boats. An important pilgrimage site, the lake is of emerald color and sprinkled
with water lilies and swarmed with goldfish. Located about 8 miles (13
kilometers) north of Ilam Bazar, there are nearby villages for viewing,
including Chureghanti, Dharpani and Hasbire Bhanjyangon
The famous star
shaped lake, Mai Pokhari is
a wetland in the Ilam district of Nepal. It has nine corners, which is believed
to be paying a tribute to nine different Gods. It is a pilgrimage site for both
the Hindus and the Buddhists and is considered to be a sacred place among the
local population.
The Mai Pokhari is known for the lush greenery surrounding which
provides a perfect place for boating and fishing. It houses a rare variety of
flora and fauna like orchid, porcupine, etc. Near to it is the Maipokhari
Botanical Gardens which has a rock garden, and orchid house, a green house and
a wide range of plants collected from different regions of Nepal.
One interesting thing associated to this place is the plain of the martyrs who
died at this spot during the agitation of 1961. The serenity and the greenery
is enough to leave you spell bound. As with all the lakes of Nepal this place
also provides a beautiful view of the snow-capped mountains surrounding it
which is sure to leave you mesmerized.Many varieties of floral and faunal
species can be found at the Mai Pokhari like the white-rumped vulture, leopard
cat, goldfish, water lily, etc. Excited much?
Recently some hotels and restaurants were gutted down
due to fire in this localities as there is the common practice here in the hill
for making local wine. While burning
firewood for wine distilling process the fire incidents took place.
Mansarover Homestay has planned to
start off road adventure tourism for
nature lover trekkers. Our mission of this visit is to explore the unexplored
tourists’ paradise of extreme eastern
Nepal . Because the usual Maneybhangyang to Sindakpur trek route is now
converted into metal road so that the tourists opt to go Sandakpur for one day
visit from Darjeeling .
Sandakpur is a small hill town of
Ilam district which situated at an altitude of 3636 meter above from the sea
level at the border of Nepal and India. Often this place is covered by snow.
Sandakpur is on of the best view point to observe ths splendid Himalayan
Ranges (Kachanjunga, Kumbhakarna, Makalu and Mount Everest including
Sikkim and Bhutan Himalayan Ranges).
It is also best place
to observe spectacular sunrise and sunset views. Rather than cultural and
historical aspects its natural aspect seems highly promising for ecotourism
development in this area
The area is also important for flora and
fauna. Red panda, a rare animal species are also found there. Sandakpur is a
very popular trekking route of Ilam district. From Ilam bazaar bus services are
not regular. So, tourists can use private vehicles that take them to
Khorsanitar of Maimajhuwa, about 21km north from Ilam bazaar, from there
Sandakpur is about six hour trek. But instead of using 4 wheeled jeep or
vintage land rovers, trekking from Barbote just 10 to 12 kilometer away is the
best starting point to set forth journey
viz. Kharedara, Barbote,Maipokhari, Deorali, Biplatay, Maimajhuwa, Goru
Aahale,and Sandakpur. While returing back another trek route Birkhe Bhanjyang,
Kalapokhari, Jaubari, Jogmal, Gorkhe and Pasupati Phatak border point of
Indo-Nepal country. 6 days trekking is the best option to enjoy the serene of
this part of world.
We spent two nights at Pema Shikhar
Heritage Farm homestay owned by Kamal Gurung and his family. In such a far
flung remote mountain village, the house is built in locally available stone
wall. The rooms are well furnished for the trekkers..Maimajhuwa Gurung helmet is another beautiful place to visit
for pure organic farming, dense forest, cattle farming, cardamom plantation,
kiwi fruits orchid, potatoes cultivation and vivid tropical fruits viz. peach,
pears, guava, naspati . Even Ghana Shyam Gurung, my cousin brother has nurtured
a big kiwi frunit and gound apple orchid in his field. The maize and potation
farming are main cash crops here.
There are big chap and guras trees around the periphery
of Pema Shikhar Heritage Farm Homesttay. During March-April season when these
trees bloom, it seems to be an another paradise for the visitors. We enjoyed two days exploring the areas halting at Pema
Shikar Heritage Farm Hmestay,Maimajhuwa including Torke WaterFall , Changey
Fall and Mini Hydel Project on Mai Khola and one beautiful aluminum plated
suspension bridge and drinking water project at the remote villages funded and constructed
by Bristist Gorkha Welfare Fund.
Bird eye view of Changey Fall at
Sindakpur Gaonbisha area
My legs were trembling negotiating down the mountaineous hilly terrian but
seeing the luxurient Torke fall situated beyond another hill looks so amazing
and beautiful. When I reached at one suspension bridge over Mai Khola
constructed and financed by British Government. I took a little rest. The
suspension bridge is made of almunium bar which is rust free and everlasting. While
negotiatng the difficult cross country village road, Sandeep and me crossed the
Rai goan helmet at Bhusunay Gaonbisha of Lower Sandakpur, we met a old Rai
bajay who offered us a dabakaful of yogert.
Superisingly I obsereved that every households of this remote eastern Nepal villages have a provision of
drinking water hydrants and connected every house with 4 electric points free
of cost under the welfare schemes of British Gorkha Welfare schemes.
Puspa wanted to
stay some more days in the lap of this pristine mountain village but I had
taken only 3 days custom entry permit from Pasupati Entry Point of Nepal
country. If I had to extend my vehicle permit, I would have to go to Pasupati
Check post which was not feasible to me.
The
hospitality of the Pema Shikar Heritage Farm Gurung family is expectional. The
locally available home grown organic vegetables, milk, curds, cheese, butter
and wine are the signature dishes of Sarita Gurung, the primary school teacher
who is so amicable and active in running their homestay. Specially in this
remote mountain village, there are plenty of country breed fowl and goats to
serve in your dishes but vegetable are scare which are found in super markets
in the metropolitan cities. The old house adjacent to new building is another
engineering design of the yester years. The kitchen equipped with bhukari
provided by British Voluntary organization was so nice to have firewood cooked
foods. They served us smoked hand rolled tea grown in their own field. It was
our unforgettable memories to spent with our relatives at Pema Shikar Heritage
Farm Homestay at Upper Maimajhuwa under Sandakpur Gaonbisha of Pradesh I state
of Nepal. We took the last good bye
photograph with the host family and returned back to Kalimpong as we had to
receive our guests who booked to stay with us at Mansarover Homestay.
Remembering the famous stanza of Robert Frost’s poem ends
my short journey sums up.“ Woods are lovely dark and green/But I promises to
keep/And miles to go before I sleep/And miles to go before I sleep.’
